Here is a proven method that is simple and cheap yet also very reliable. Installing a quality boost gauge is something you should do first. Also installing an air/fuel gauge, reading your spark plugs, and all other safety recommendations mentioned in Recipe B is a good idea but not absolutely necessary; upping your boost by only a few pounds is within the limits of your computer and should never cause any trouble unless there is some sort of hardware failure (bad fuel pressure regulator or some such occurance).
NOTE: it would be wise to read through the instructions a few times, then look underhood and figure out where you'll mount everything before you blindly start snipping vacuum line. This way you can intelligently cut your vacuum lines to the proper length and minimize your frustration and financial loss. (Not that vacuum line is terribly expensive....)
Here's what to do:
1. Remove the hose coming out of the wastegate actuator can and plug the hose. Find a source of manifold pressure/vacuum (at the turbo's output barb if your turbo has one, or else from the intake manifold itself) and connect a new short rubber vacuum line directly to this source of manifold pressure.
2. Now you have to find the factory restrictor. It's in the wastegate solenoid vacuum lines that you just rendered useless when you unplugged the hose from your turbo OR it might be in a tube that comes straight out of your turbo. Once you find it, plug it into the open end of the vacuum hose we just attached to the intake manifold.
3. Add another chunk of vacuum line to the other end of this restrictor. At the open end of this second chunk install a vacuum tee.
4. Prepare your bleed valve by closing it all the way and then opening it very slightly. You should just barely be able to blow through it at all.
5. Attach another short piece of vacuum line to one open barb on the vacuum tee we installed in step #3. At the other end of this vacuum line mount a check valve so that it lets air blow out but won't let air get sucked in. (Make sure you point it the right way!) Now get your prepared bleed valve and, with short rubber tubing, connect it to the open end of the check valve.
6. Get a solenoid and connect a length of vacuum line from its center barb to the wastegate actuator.
7. Cut your first vacuum line in half between the restrictor and the intake manifold and reconnect it with a vacuum tee. With another piece of hose connect this tee's remaining nipple to the on solenoid barb. Then immediately cut this line in half and reconnect it with another vacuum tee.
8. Get a 12 volt pressure switch that is calibrated for 14psi. Connect the pressure switch's vacuum barb to the open barb on the vacuum tee in step #7.
9. Take one last chunk of rubber line and connect the solenoid's off barb to the only remaining open nipple of the tee we installed in step #3.
10. Finally, connect the electrical wires. Attach one wire from the solenoid to a clean ground. Connect the other one to the electrical output wire from the pressure switch. Lastly connect the pressure switch's electrical feed line to a reliable 12 volt line (adding a small fuse is a good idea).
Now you dial it in. Take a ride and nail it in a higher gear (so that you can stay in full boost for a little while). The boost should quickly peak and then gently level off. For this setup, a desirable target boost level would be 11-13 psi. Make slight adjustments to the bleed valve until the boost settles where you want it. For faster spoolup, swap in a restrictor with a smaller orifice (or even use two normal ones in line).
Modified 11/27/98.